It is bright and sunny this morning at the Old Rectory, but there is a distinct chill in the air.
The light though is crisp and sharp, reminding me of our time in Provence, in the first year of our marriage. I had in my mind’s eye Monet’s The Luncheon (seen at the Musee d’Orsay last weekend) as I passed by the empty garden table by the meadow, now mown. If only life was so elegant nowadays.

The Old Rectory at 7am this morning.

Claude Monet’s The Luncheon.
In 2010, when we took the children to Paris, we also took the high speed train to St Remy afterwards.
This was the same trip when Madame Secretary pronounced “NON”, that it was simply “impossible” to allow us to use the facilities at the Cercle de l’Union Interalliee members’ club, despite having an introductory letter from the Hurlingham Club.
On the day of departure it was pouring with rain. When we arrived at the train station, the passengers were barred from going onto the platform, until the last minute. The surge of bodies when the barrier was lowered was like the first day of the Harrods Sale; survival of the fittest. Who cared if you trampled over your fellow man or woman to reach your seat?
We asked a railway official on the platform whether we were at the correct carriage for our pre-booked tickets. “NON, you are on the wrong platform. This is not your train.” We set off at pace to reach the next platform, to be told, “NON,” you need to go to the next platform.” He was pointing to the platform we had originally been on.

The Musee d’Orsay was once a spectacular train station.
We legged it back to the spot on the platform where we had first set off. The whistles were blowing, the doors were about to close, everyone was now on the train. I just yelled, “Get on.” So we threw our bags on and followed with our bodies. We landed in a wet, messy heap.
We were, ‘surprise surprise’, in the correct carriage!
St Remy was beautiful. People talk about the light in Provence. It is where many of the Impressionists and post-Impressionists headed to paint: including Vincent Van Gogh. After he had an attempt at cutting off his ear, he went to stay at the Saint-Paul Asylum. He was very ill when he went there, but he still managed to paint some exquisite art, including Starry Night over the Rhone. I was enthralled by a similar one at the Musee d’Orsay in Paris. When I stumbled on the painting, the words to an old Don McLean song flooded back, “Starry, starry night. Paint your palette blue and grey, Look out on a summer’s day, With eyes that know the darkness of my soul.” He suffered so. Is there sometimes a link between brilliance and depression?

The courtyard where Van Gogh was hospitalised of his own accord.
Our little hotel, very basic, happened to be across the road from Saint-Paul. We went to see Van Gogh’s room, where he stayed most of the time. It too was basic, and it was unlike the cheerful painting of it displayed at the Musee d’Orsay. The grounds were beautiful, and although nature is said to heal, it did not heal him. They failed to still the desperate ruminations of his mind.
We did very little in St Remy other than swim in the pool, play cards and board games, and eat delicious food.
And at night, we looked at the same stars that Vincent Van Gogh, a genius, gazed at from his small, lonely room.

Van Gogh – the troubled artist.















